Сейчас вполне понятно желание многих уложить в квартире ламинат, так как это покрытие пола очень популярно благодаря своим неоспоримым преимуществам над другими видами половых покрытий: доступная цена и простота укладки. Помимо этого ламинатное покрытие пола выглядит довольно гармонично и аккуратно, так как настоящее время представлен большой выбор, позволяющий подобрать ламинат для любого интерьера.
Необходимые материалы и инструменты
Учитывая все нюансы укладки пола ламинатом, понадобятся следующие материалы:
- ламинат;
- полиэтиленовая пленка;
- вспененный полиэтилен;
- грунтовка, клей;
- плинтус;
- крепления для плинтуса;
- клинья для создания технологических зазоров.
Также потребуются следующие инструменты:
- карандаш;
- строительный нож;
- рулетка;
- строительный уголок;
- деревянный брусок;
- ножовка (либо электролобзик);
- молоток.
Ламинат следует приобретать в количестве с запасом, так как в ходе укладки могут допускаться ошибки, в результате чего несколько элементов могут быть испорчены.
Основа для укладки ламината
Основа для ламината является очень важным элементом. Даже самый дорогой и качественный материал недолго прослужит, если будет уложен на неровный пол. Выровняв в достаточной степени поверхность пола, допускается наложение ламината на старый пол.
Наилучшим вариантом, особенно для помещений в новостройках, является наложение ламината на бетонный пол. Еще лучше, если применяется самовыравнивающееся смесь.
В некоторых случаях возникает необходимость настилки ламинатного покрытия на деревянный пол.
Процесс укладки ламината
Перед настилкой ламината очень важно тщательно подготовить его основание, то есть необходимо выровнять пол. Конечно, не обязательно делать именно стяжку. Например, в случае наличия деревянного пола, необходимо пройтись шлифовальной машиной в нужных местах. Однако для достижения идеального результата рекомендуется сделать стяжку. Бетонная поверхность очищается, на нее накладывается гидроизоляционная пленка. Полосы пленки укладываются с наложением в 20 сантиметров. Стыки между ними нужно проклеить скотчем. Затем настилается вспененный полиэтилен.
Подкладка под ламинат
Советуется укладывать подкладку лишь на той части пола, на которой в этот момент делается настил, докладывая ее по мере продвижения. Это сохранит подкладку чистой и целостной. Подкладку под ламинат необходимо проложить так, чтобы она на 2-3 сантиметра находила на стены, формируя полосу амортизации. Остальные полосы прикладываются встык друг другу, приклеиваясь скотчем.
Важно учесть, что под ламинат, имеющий в своем составе звукоизолирующую подложку, подкладку из вспененного полиэтилена класть нельзя. Только при бетонном основании формируют гидроизоляционный слой.
Монтаж ламината начинается с укладки в углу комнаты со стороны источника естественного освещения (окна) первой ламели, между ней и стенкой вставляют колышки. Затем в ряд добавляются цельные полосы. Очень важно при этом правильно соединять детали.
На торцах ламелей ламината имеются пазы. Следующая ламель равномерно проводится под небольшим углом, плотно вставляясь в предыдущую уже установленную ламель.
Не рекомендуется прилагать значительных усилий или применять молоток для сцепления. Если цельный элемент ламината не вместился в оставшееся до стены расстояние, его заполняют отрезком.
Все детали следующего ряда прокладываются без защелкивания с первым рядом, а лишь задев за край торца. Только после того, как весь ряд состыкован подобно первому, элементы второго ряда немного приподнимаются и заводятся в замок до упора, защелкиваясь по всей длине. Если замок в некоторых местах защелкнулся не полностью, советуется приложить к внешней части детали ламината деревянный брусок и молотком слегка постучать по нему.
Укладка ламината по диагонали
Возможна укладка ламината также и по диагонали. Это делается для создания своеобразного эффекта увеличения помещения. Здесь есть недостаток: большой расход материла. Количество необходимого в данном случае ламината рассчитывается, прибавив к площади помещения дополнительных 7-8%.
Укладка ламината по диагонали
Этапы подготовки не отличаются от обычной укладки. От угла возле окна протягивается леска, замерив 45 градусов от стен. По ней в дальнейшем можно ориентироваться, выравнивая укладку ламината.
Края первой полосы обрезаются под углом в 45 градусов. Далее для следующего ряда берутся две полосы и отмеряются так, чтобы место их стыка пришлось на середину предыдущего ряда, а обрезанные края с зазором пришлись к стене. По этой схеме заполняется все остальное пространство пола. Рекомендуется, ориентируясь на стыки уже проложенных предыдущих рядов и леску, вначале проложить цельные куски, и затем выполнить обрезку, заполнив участки у стен.
Нюансы укладки ламината
Особое внимание при укладке следует уделить местам с изгибами или выступами стен, с выводами труб отопления или коммуникаций. В данном случае необходимо вырезать из деталей ламината фигурные элементы с использованием карандаша, строительного уголка, строительного ножа или электролобзика.
После заполнения всего пространства пола и выполнения монтажа сложных мест убираются все клинья и подрезаются излишки слишком выступающих краев подложки. Необходимо оставить 1-2 сантиметра захода подложки на стену. Она будет выполнять функцию амортизирующего пояса. Затем остается лишь установить плинтус и пол в помещении будет готов.
Ошибки при укладке ламината
В процессе укладки ламината существует множество нюансов и особенностей. Если ламинат уложен корректно с учетом всех указаний, проблем с его эксплуатацией в дальнейшем не возникнет.
Изначально укладка ламината кажется несложной, однако спустя некоторое время могут проявляться ошибки, допущенные при укладке: появятся щели, будет слышен скрип, поверхность покоробится.
Во-первых, перед покупкой следует тщательно изучить все возможные виды данной продукции и выбрать авторитетного производителя. Во-вторых, необходимо как следует подготовить поверхность пола.
Еще одна наиболее частая ошибка – отсутствие зазора между стенами и панелями ламината, а также сплошной пол для всех комнат в квартире без применения молдингов.
В зависимости от воздействия температуры ламинат может сужаться или расширяться, поэтому между панелью и стеной требуется оставить зазор в 1-2 сантиметра. Зазор можно скрыть под плинтусом.
Важно тщательно изучить инструкцию и правила укладки ламината перед тем, как приступить к работе.
Несоблюдение необходимых требований может привести к поломке замка одной панели, но при этом придется сменить все покрытие полностью. Чтобы избежать таких последствий требуется тщательно изучить инструкцию по укладке ламината.
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