Водопроводные и канализационные трубы суровой зимой могут промерзать, создавая домовладельцам массу неприятностей. Предотвратить проблему способна укладка нагревательного кабеля. Рассмотрим виды проводников, способы монтажа (наружный либо внутренний) и потребляемую ими мощность.
Виды применяемых проводников
Греющие кабели могут быть:
резистивный, в котором нагревается сам металлический проводник;
кабель саморегулирующийся, в котором греется полимер, расположенный между двумя проводами.
Резистивные, независимо от погодных условий, всегда выделяют одно и то же количество тепла. Применять данный нагревательный провод без датчиков температуры и терморегулятора нерационально. Саморегулирующий греющий кабель благодаря применяемой металлополимерной матрице сам меняет свою температуру: при разогреве полимер выделяет меньше тепла, остывая – больше. Коррекция температур, протекающая на участке провода, не зависит от состояния соседних участков.
Резистивные нагревательные кабели нельзя укладывать вплотную, запрещено также их взаимное пересечение. Если подобное случится, проводник перегреется и выйдет из строя. По этой причине монтаж резистивного греющего провода требуется выполнять особо тщательно. Кроме того, необходимо отметить, что данный проводник может быть:
одножильным;
двухжильным.
Вторые применяются чаще, причина кроется в удобстве применения. Подключение греющего кабеля из двух жил не вызывает затруднений: на одном конце стоит заглушка, на втором закреплён электрошнур с вилкой, подключаемый к бытовой сети 220 В. Если же используется обогревающий кабель из одной жилы, то необходимо продумать подсоединение к электросети обоих концов, что сделать порой достаточно сложно. Также учтите, что разрезать резистивные нагревательные кабели нельзя, после этого о их нормальном функционировании можно забыть. Поэтому проводник, имеющий избыточную длину, всё равно всегда укладывается целиком.
Единственным ощутимым для потребителя преимуществом резистивного электрического нагревательного кабеля является его цена. Она гораздо ниже, чем у саморегулирующегося кабеля.
Какого бы типа нагревательные кабели не использовались, трубопровод требует утепления. В противном случае на обогрев будет израсходована слишком большая мощность, что соответственно скажется на увеличении расходов. Кроме того, в сильные морозы проводник может просто не справиться со своей работой.
Особенности моделей, самостоятельно выполняющих регуляцию
Саморегулирующийся нагревательный кабель обладает следующими преимуществами:
стойкость к ультрафиолетовому излучению, пламени и химическим веществам;
возможность нарезания отрезков любой длины (по отмеченным линиям разреза);
экономный расход электрической энергии;
предельно высокий показатель мощности.
влагоустойчивость;
Однако саморегулирующий греющий кабель желательно оснастить специальными защитными приспособлениями. Причина кроется в резком повышении мощности после подключения системы обогрева.
Греющий кабель внутри канализационной трубы прокладывают достаточно редко. Причина: на проводник воздействуют кислоты и щелочи, попадающие в водосток, изоляция быстро разрушается. Чаще всего такая мера применяется как временная и экстренная. Однако можно и специально приобрести греющий кабель для канализации внутри трубы с функцией саморегуляции. Его внешняя оболочка должна быть устойчива к агрессивной внешней среде.
Установка системы обогрева
Монтаж греющего кабеля может осуществляться как внутри, так и снаружи трубы. Причём для разных способов применяются провода, отличающиеся своими техническими характеристиками. Эта информация всегда приводится производителем.
Греющий кабель внутри трубы должен иметь:
степень электрической защиты не ниже IP68;
оболочку без примеси отравляющих веществ;
муфту, устанавливаемую герметично на конец проводника;
тройник, втулку уплотнения, втулку зажимную и прочее на другом конце проводника, на выходе из трубопровода.
Помните! Место соединения нагревательного провода с электрическим должно обязательно оставаться вне водной среды. Соединительная муфта не выдержит погружения внутрь трубы.
Особенности внешнего монтажа
Греющий кабель для обогрева труб монтируется вплотную так, чтобы прилегал по всей площади. Поверхность, к которой он будет крепиться, предварительно очищается от всего лишнего: следов сварки, грязи, ржавчины, пыли, пр. Не должного остаться ни одного элемента, способного причинить вред схеме подключения. Монтаж осуществляется на чистый металл, фиксация выполняется каждые 30 см (можно чаще, лишь бы не реже). Удерживают проводник пластиковые хомуты либо металлизированная клейкая лента.
Пуская по трубе параллельно, не прикасаясь, 1-2 нитки провода, монтируют их там, где будет холодней – с нижней стороны. Если подключаются одновременно 3 и более проводника, располагаются они всё также с привязкой к низу трубопровода. Аналогично важна и выдержка расстояния между ними, особенно для резистивных моделей.
Можно осуществить укладку греющего кабеля спиралью, не забывая, что резкие и многократные изгибы ему противопоказаны. Сделать это допускается по-разному:
разматывая муфту шаг за шагом, намотать провод на трубопровод;
зафиксировать проводник с провисаниями (нижняя картинка рис.10), которые затем следует подмотать и прикрепить.
Если труба из пластика, то вначале для улучшения теплопроводности и повышения эффективности нагрева наклеивается металлизированный скотч. И только затем поверх него выполняем установку греющего кабеля.
Запирающие и регулирующие элементы трубопровода требуют большего расхода тепла. Поэтому на них нагревательные провода укладываются в несколько петель (не забывайте избегать резких изгибов!).
Утеплители
Минеральную вату любого происхождения для утепления труб канализации использовать не стоит. Причина проста – намокая, она теряет теплоизоляционные свойства. А со временем подмоченная и подсушенная минеральная вата вовсе превратится в труху. Также не лучшим вариантом будет применение утеплителя, сжимающегося под действием тяжести и, как следствие, теряющего теплоизоляционные свойства. Однако если труба проложена в специально построенной канализации, где на неё ничего не давит, допустимо применять даже поролон. Но если трубопровод закапывается, то требуется жесткая теплоизоляция.
Как вариант, можно по сминаемому утеплителю пустить пластиковую канализационную трубу. Её жёсткость позволит защитить утепляющий материал (например, вспененный полиэтилен с закрытыми ячейками).
Неплохим решением будет применение пенополистирола, сформированного в виде участков труб различного диаметра. Подобный утеплитель часто именуют «скорлупой». Пенополистирол имеет приемлемые теплоизоляционные характеристики, не страшится влаги, без повреждений выдерживает определённые нагрузки (их размер зависит от плотности материала).
Технические параметры проводника
Скорость преобразования электрической энергии зависит от следующих факторов:
климатических условий (чем холодней, тем больше мощность потребуется);
способа прокладки трубопровода и его диаметра;
наличия либо отсутствия утепления;
способа прокладки провода (внутри трубы либо поверху);
вида применяемого проводника.
Каждый производитель приводит таблицы, по которым можно определить прогнозируемый расход мощности на 1 метр трубопровода. По ним и стоит ориентироваться рачительному хозяину. В качестве примера можно сообщить, что в средней полосе на обогрев 1 м трубопровода изнутри пойдёт 10 Вт/м, а при наружном обогреве израсходуется не менее 17 Вт/м. В данном случае рассматривается вариант с утеплением пенополистирольной скорлупой толщиной 30 мм.
Изготовить греющий кабель своими руками можно из П-274М (военно-полевого телефонного кабеля). Самодельный проводник не будет иметь саморегуляции и пищевой изоляции, но с нечастым наружным применением справится. Как видим, сэкономить и сделать греющий кабель своими руками можно, однако максимальная сила тока для такого изделия составит не более 9 А.
Стоит ли ставить терморегулятор
Есть серьезные основания устанавливать терморегулятор, даже если применяется саморегулирующий кабель. Ведь, если вода подаётся из скважины, у неё температура даже жарким летом будет немногим выше нуля. В таком случае обогрев будет вестись круглогодично, что явно не рационально. Конечно, летом обогрев можно отключить, но весной и осенью внезапные заморозки могут застать врасплох.
На подключённом терморегуляторе устанавливается температура отключения (допустим, +5°C). После чего не только заметно снизятся расходы на обогрев труб, но и продлится срок эксплуатации проводника.
Если в систему обогрева включён терморегулятор, то необходим и датчик температуры. Его надо установить так, чтобы он не улавливал нагрев, продуцируемый нагревателями. Другими словами, требуется зафиксировать датчик на трубе, изолировав от греющих кабелей
Сам терморегулятор лучше ставить в помещении. Он должен подключаться к электрическому щитку через защитный автомат и желательно УЗО (устройство защитного отключения). Низкая потребляемая мощность проводника позволяет использовать автомат номиналом около 6 А, номинал УЗО лучше взять ближайший больший, порядка 30 мА.
Проводник присоединяют к нужным разъемам на терморегуляторе. Если веток несколько, их пускают параллельно. К соседним контактам подключается температурный датчик. На терморегуляторе должна быть маркировка, сообщающая, как сделать правильно подключение. Если информация отсутствует — не рискуйте, приобретите другой прибор.
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