В наши дни очень актуально применение электрического теплого пола, преимущественно при подогреве керамической плитки, обогреве лоджии, бани либо веранды. Также такие полы используют как дополнение к основному виду отопления. Укладка такого пола достаточно проста, если следовать инструкциям.
Схема теплого электрического пола
Структуру электрического пола начиная от нижнего слоя следующая:
- основной черновой пол из бетона, который необходимо выполнять максимально ровно, без впадин и бугорков, чтобы не пережечь кабель;
- теплоизолирующая неплавкая подложка под электрический пол, например, пенополистирол либо пенополиэтилен с отражающим слоем из фольги толщину, которой подбирают соответственно температурным нагрузкам;
- крепежная система, представляющая собой монтажную ленту либо арматурную сетку;
- нагревательный кабель с наличием температурного датчика, который подает информацию на терморегулятор;
- заливка специальной смеси для теплых полов либо цементно-песочная стяжка толщиной около 3-5 сантиметров;
- напольное финишное покрытие, в большинстве случаев плитка, но возможна прокладка и иного покрытия.
Материалы
Электрический теплый пол бывает двух разновидностей :
- Пол, который сформирован методом самостоятельной укладки кабеля нагревания.
- Пол с нагревательными матами, то есть стеклосетка, в которой имеется уже проложенный кабель.
Принципиального отличия между этими разновидностями нет. В первом случае имеется свобода режима обогрева и расположения кабеля, а также возможность использования нагревательного кабеля, как для основной, так и для дополнительной системы отопления. Маты же, как правило, используют для дополнительного обогрева.
Кабели в свою очередь бывают резистивные и саморегулирующиеся.Резистивный состоит из одной либо двух жил, которые обладают повышенным сопротивлением. Он также называется одножильным либо двужильным.
Двужильные кабели довольно просты в монтаже и оборудованы системой рассеивания электромагнитного излучения намного лучше. Саморегулирующийся кабель немного отличается по конструкции.
В данном случае, исходя из своей конструкции, по всей длине кабеля происходит процесс самостоятельной регуляции силы тока, влияющей на нагревательный элемент. Благодаря этому кабель не перегревается на каком-либо участке и не нарушает систему обогрева, в отличие от кабеля первого типа. Однако такой вариант обходится дороже по цене.
Порядок работы
При формировании электрического пола важен правильный расчет мощности системы обогрева для конкретного помещения. Также температуру пола следует учесть при подборе покрытия пола. Общие данные для помещений различного типа следующие:
- в спальне — 100 -150 Вт/кв.м;
- в коридоре, кухне и прихожей комнате — 150 Вт/кв.м;
- в ванной и туалете — 180 Вт/кв.м;
- на балконе или в лоджии — 200 Вт/кв.м.
Так или иначе рекомендуется обратиться к услугам специалиста, который точно определит нужную мощность и поможет подобрать нужные материалы. Таким же образом должна составляться схема электрического теплового пола. Участие специалиста также необходимо при подключении системы и проведении от распределительного щита дополнительной усиленной линии проводки. Монтажные работы же можно проводить самостоятельно.
Выравнивание полов и укладка теплоизоляции
В случае, если теплый пол служит в качестве основного источника обогрева следует обязательно применить слой теплоизоляции, толщина которого зависит от того, что уложено непосредственно под покрытием пола. Лучше всего для этого подходит пенополистирол 35-ой плотности. Для помещений выше первого этажа при наличии внизу отапливаемого помещения достаточно применить утеплитель толщиной 2 сантиметра. Для помещений же первого этажа с наличием отапливаемого подвала рекомендуется применение утеплителя толщиной 3 сантиметра. Для помещений первого этажа без отапливаемых подвалов, балконов, а также помещений, находящихся над арочными сквозными пролетами следует использовать утеплитель толщиной не менее 5 сантиметров, а в домах с бетонной подушкой, лежащей на грунте – 10 сантиметров.
Слой теплоизоляции можно прикрепить при помощи специальных дюбелей либо уложить на специальный клей. Полы необходимо делать ровными, без ям, трещин и перекосов. В обратном случае трещины заделываются цементным раствором, а при перекосе делается черновая стяжка и выравнивается пол. Перед укладкой теплоизоляции поверхность обрабатывается грунтовкой, которая препятствует образованию плесени, а при склеивании слоя теплоизоляции благодаря грунтовке повышается сцепление материалов между собой. Плиты клеятся либо закрепляются в нескольких местах посредством дюбелей. По поверхности фиксируют штукатурную сетку при помощи пластиковых плит либо дюбелей с шайбами, равными по длине толщине слоя теплоизоляции. Такой крепеж дополнительно прикрепляет к полу плиты.
Расчет кабеля
Кабель должен покрывать поверхность помещения на 80% площади всего помещения. На 1 квадратный метр закладывается мощность в рамках 180-200 Вт/ м². Необходимо до укладки проверить сопротивление секций кабеля. Допустимо отклонение около 10% в обе стороны от показателя, указанного в техпаспорте. Кабель не прокладывается в местах нахождения бытовой техники, крупногабаритной мебели без опорных ножек. От стен отступают на 5-7 сантиметров. Далее рассчитывается шаг для укладки кабеля. В сантиметрах шаг равняется площади обогрева, умножаемой на 100 и делимой на длину кабеля. До укладки кабеля следует учесть то, что секция одножильного кабеля соединяется с нагревательным проводом в двух концах, а у двужильного кабеля с одного.
Подготовительные работы
Чтобы установить терморегулятор в стене на месте крепления вырезается углубление и проделывается штроба до пола. Посредством алебастра крепят монтажную коробку для терморегулятора. Из нее выходит гофрированная трубка, которая укладывается в штобру и замазывается алебастром. Конец трубки на 40 сантиметров заводят в зону обогрева, расположив ее так, чтобы термодатчик находился между витками кабеля в центре. У трубы не должно быть резких изгибов. Под ее конец, на место расположения датчика, подкладывается материал для возвышения для того, чтобы датчик находился почти под полом, правильно фиксируя температуру. Трубку на конце следует плотно закрыть с помощью изоленты для предотвращения попадания в нее раствора при стяжке.
Укладка кабеля
Кабель располагают змейкой, при этом соблюдают вычисленный шаг. Можно зафиксировать его к металлической сетке при помощи пластиковых стяжек минимальной длины. Затем после укладки проверяется и записывается сопротивление кабеля, зарисовывается схема расположения витков кабеля, включается и проверяется работоспособность системы. После этого все отключается, снимается терморегулятор до завершения работ по отделке пола.
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The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.
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Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.
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