Прочное основание под домом – залог продолжительного эксплуатационного периода любого строения. А если несущая способность почвы на участке низкая, то о фундаменте необходимо беспокоиться более скрупулезно.
Время доказало строителям, что конкурентов у монолитной плиты, которая заложена под строящимся зданием, практически нет. Для нее не страшны подвижки почвы, высокие грунтовые воды, слабые грунты. Мало того, относительная простота монтажа, экономическая оправданность конструкции, ее доступные составляющие – это толика достоинств, которые способствуют активной популяризации данной технологии. Второе название плиточного фундамента – плавающий фундамент. Так его называют из-за способности двигаться в унисон с промерзающей и оттаивающей почвой.
Возникает вполне закономерный вопрос: «А можно монолитную плиту сделать самостоятельно?». Да, такая технология существует и ее этапам достаточной просто следовать.
С чего начать
Изначально необходимо определиться, какой тип фундамента вам подойдет максимально точно. При расчете глубины траншеи, учитывают 4 параметра:
Ширина и толщина ленты зависит от физических особенностей строительного материала наземной части ограждения. Такие расчеты под силу провести лишь специалисту, потому как необходимо учесть вес всего будущего здания, состав почвы, амплитуду температурных колебаний, да еще десятки на первый взгляд малозначимых нюансов.
Мы приводим лишь ориентировочную толщину закладываемо монолита, которая применима чаще всего на грунтах средней плотности. Стоит браться за работу самостоятельно, если вам подходит мелкозаглубленный вариант основания. Для его обустройства достаточно снять плодородный слой (20-60 см).
Порядок проведения работ
Плитный фундамент имеет вид «пирога». Последовательность слоев, не нарушают ни при каких обстоятельствах, ибо последствия чреваты большими неприятностями. Будьте внимательны на всех этапах, если делаете плитный фундамент своими руками. Итак:
Армирование проводят арматурными прутами продольными (12-18 мм). Их укладывают, отступив от края 10 см. Соединение в единый каркас делают посредством поперечных прутьев с шагом в 45-50 см. Для связывания предусмотрена специальная мягкая проволока и крючок. На углах вяжут хомутами, это многократно увеличивает прочность всего сооружения. Иногда, под большие строения из тяжелого строительного материала, целесообразно применить сварку. Сваренные места пересечения куда надежнее, чем скрепленные проволокой. Ячейки обычно достигают 350*350 мм.
Если бетон заливать порциями с большими временными промежутками, то образуются «холодные» швы, которых в конструкции быть не должно. Да и качество заводского бетона куда лучше, ведь в нем присутствуют пластические добавки, соблюдена технология изготовления.
Делаем бетонный раствор самостоятельно
Для изготовления монолитной плиты берем 1 часть цемента не ниже М400, 3 части песка, 5 частей гравия. Помните, что песок годится только чистый, а воды необходимо брать 60% от массы цемента. При низких температурах воздуха надо заливать теплую воду, которая будет стимулировать процесс затвердевания смеси. Летом вода подходит низких температур.
Если вы хоть малость сомневаетесь в собственных знаниях, то доверьтесь надежной и проверенной строительной компании. Специалисты быстро и безошибочно предоставят важную информацию, осуществят нужные расчеты, помогут непосредственно в строительстве.
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